Sunday, July 7, 2013

Gotta Get Down on Friday: 2002 Lenz, 2002 Schueller, 2002 d’Yquem, Et al.



This past weekend for the first time in a very long time I had Saturday off (#sommelierproblems?), so I decided to have some friends over, raid the cellar, and have a Friday night wine experience.

We started with some cold cold Muscadet, the 2010 Luneau-Papin Clos des Alees Vieilles Vignes Muscadet Sur Lie- Sevres et Maine which is drinking crisp, creamy and beautiful accented by green apple, apricot, peach, and mineral.

From there we went to Chinon with the 2007 Domaine des Pallus Chinon 'Les Pensees'—a textbook example of mature Cabernet Franc (without being too herbaceous).  And then a taste of the 2003 Domaine Calvet-Thunevin "Les Dentelles" Cotes du Rousillon Villages a wine that is spectacularly ripe, high octane and dark-fruited—Priorat-like is what I called it. It rings in at a monstrous 15.5 but it carries it well. This is serious juice.

The French reds were followed by a 2002 Lenz Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (from North Fork Long Island)—a very mature Cabernet showing dried black fruits punctuated by a distinct crushed leaf earthiness. This wine is lean in its old age but still showing good acidity and pretty November-like aromas (dried leaves, burning leaves, and smoke).

After the French Reds it was down to Fat Cat (the finest wine list in Fairfield County, for those of you not up to snuff on your CT wine lists), but one more trip down to the cellar first to find something good to bring with us. What to drink on the hottest, most humid night of the summer? Dessert wine, but of course.

The walk down to the bar was sweaty. I could feel the half bottle wanting to squirm loose from my wet palm. We were relieved from the heat as we walked into Fat Cat and ordered a magnum of 2002 Schuller ‘Oncle Leon’ Pinot Gris. It was flinty, off-dry, crisp, rich, floral, and spicy—all at the same time. It drank beautifully. My buddy Matt said that it was one of the best white wines he had ever had.

After the mag we were joined by my buddies Mark and Tony for dessert wines. The wines were nothing short of magnificent beside the Fat Cat butterscotch pudding which I have always said is the most addictive gastronomical indulgence in the world. Mark and Tony shared with us a killer bottle of 1989 2nd Trie Domaine d’Ambinos Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu. It was rich, honey/nutty, and developed—still with good acidity and clean fruit. Mark and I both agreed that this bottle was even better than the bottle that we had enjoyed with Vincent Caille back in March. Simply ambrosia.



And finally we drank the half bottle of 2002 Chateau d’Yquem I’d brought to share with the boys. It was also stellar. Like tasting every fruit in the world all at the same time. What surprised me most was its profound oakiness/spiciness that was obvious but so well integrated and flush. One of the best I’ve had this year. Perfect for a 90 degree night.

We finished at my house with a 2004 Veuve Clicquot Brut. It was meaty, yeasty, and Pinot-driven.





No comments:

Post a Comment